7/1/09

Not so much of an instinctual reason to surf today. More of a compulsion and the weather prediction principle that conditions have a great possibility of being like the day before.

I don’t know if it was completely worth the effort. I sat in traffic at the fish hook for ½ hour and that wasn’t good for the hypertension. It made me cranky. I should on myself. I should all over myself.

There was more of the same swell as yeaterday so I went to the hook. Precursor was up on the cliff with crusty locals talking about wrangling with some chick out in the water. She was a go straight Kate I guess… The Muppet Show - featuring Statler and Waldorf.

Out in the water was the same vibe, but that is what the hook is known for anyway.

It seems like this too when a good swell starts to wane. People get all freaky.
Like, “whatdayamean there is no more crank?”


I couldn’t really find my place today out there so I moved around a lot. My session was a strange hodge-podge of surf journal lore.

Out there sitting around and saw an older man with the crew of what I’ve seen to be regulars at the hook. He is a good surfer and was plucking waves and he gets the respect. He had a great smile on his face I thought.

Then some dude paddled out elegantly on his long board – no leash, and came out and let it float while he swam around in the water during a lull in the sets. Because this guy has a long board he just power stroked right into waves.

This is what he does: shoots “closest to the curl” around someone who doesn’t even see him. (Just like I did to the flaming angry guy – you know the one that drives the pink Mary Kay Jetta with the herbalife bumper sticker?)

Super grey area on the rules.

I watched the start of it happen and wondered about the outcome. Somehow I imagined them sharing the wave.

When the old dude paddled back out I thought I’d ask him how that worked out. I didn’t because I thought it would be better to just watch the upcoming dialogue when these guys met in the line-up again.

The older local dude went off on the long board guy.

Dialogue:

You paddled around everyone and cut in, this is your last warning.

C’mon man, there’s plenty of waves.

No, that’s bullshit.


Unlike yesterday, I had my earplugs in. I pointed to them and then gave a thumbs-up and that got a laugh.

After that, it was a fun session regardless. Come to terms with what it means, the ego, etc... I was kookful no doubt, surfing the backflow peaks – it was hard to paddle against them. Super thrash session. Good for control and practice though. Timing was important because a 2 foot ripple would come through the wave.

It was also fun getting psyched up to hit sharks and try to beat the section. I did it – even though I got blasted in the face with water.

Time to go in.

Since it was high tide it was tough to get back to the beach. Sea caves were spraying out - pretty awesome.

I saw a 2x4 floating in the water with nails and screws sticking out right in the wave path. High tide must've washed out someone's bonfire materials. I made a serious effort to bring that back with me as good waterman stewardship duty.

I got my ass kicked - raked into the rocks - but I did it. It probably punctured my board, but I did it. I probably tore my wetsuit, but I did it. I got sucked into a sea cave, but I did it. (Roll camera!)

I dumped that nasty 2x4 upstairs. Fuck, I did it for all you bitches at the hook.