7/03/09

The City of San Jose gives its employees Friday off this year since the 4th of July holiday is on a Saturday.

So, on Friday morning I had the vibe to go to Manresa. I had planned to go there anyway with Dave Lipnicke and his kids. When I got there I found out the conditions would’ve been great for someone to learn at. It was very calm and I could see being out there and shoving them into slow rolling knee high waves. It’s a bummer they couldn’t make it.
I would’ve stayed if they were here, but decided I would take my chances and drive north.

Of course, I drove all the way to Waddell Creek. That place is awesome this time of year. I and a bunch of other people agree it seems...

Sitting in the parking lot, chatted it up with some different folks. Some guy, it looked like he was standing on the hood of my car, but in fact standing on those giant boulders in front of the parking lot on top of the terrace. It was good for a laugh.

Fun time moving around – sometimes it’s easy to just paddle out and accept that that is at least good exercise this makes you lower some expectations. There were funny conversations in the water too.

There were a bunch of young kids out there. All really good, and started talking about sex education – they were 11-12 year olds. One boy was asked by another, “Do you know what a period is?” They kept calling it "the P.”

Wearing earplugs has rendered me ineffective to hear much out in the water, which is both good and bad. Sometimes it’s great to tune out the bullshit. People and their hot-air, bluff restoration projects… leaf blowers, home construction. But it’s also funny to hear people talk about, for example, the need for water-proof-porn.

What I did hear that was funny was how someone predicted that one of these "kids (talking about periods - at 42, I really don't know either) would become a merchant marine when he grows up."

Out in the water was the some of the really cool people that reminded me of how I spent last summer: Driving from Los Gatos to Waddell Creek to surf; and then driving to Walnut Creek to do home construction.

Today, however, not so good on my rides. Many lefts where I can’t negotiate the close out section, can’t generate speed, or immediately crouch and grab the rail. Whatever. In Santa Cruz you spend all winter going right - frontside for me! It's hard to switch up.

Had two rides where I dropped on a left and then shot forward in front of the crashing wall without eating it. It is good control and skill for dealing with getting out of chancy surf without hurting someone or yourself and, key to "holding on to your board." I rode the first one of these all the way in, helping some dude capture his leash-less surfboard (while on my way to drink some water). At Waddell Creek (at least where I go) you can see your car from the water and it is easily accessible.

I took another in at the end of the session with the sharp bottom turn and then turning perpendicular to the wave as it beat down – riding it all the way to the shore.

I donated my 2 and a half year old shoe-goo enhanced booties to the parking lot.

That’s good. I am gearing out now.

I bought some f-bomb booties and then another pair of the same type of basic O’Neill booties that I have. Also, getting ready for southern California next weekend. Hmmm… Trying to find a 3/2 or spring suit.

Anyways, I had sense of brotherhood or belonging with surf today. Let your ego go is good advice for me. Just watch sometimes. Best to watch the take off of someone else when you pass through the wave.

Happy 4th