7/07/09

No work today. Sleepy sleepy sleepy in.

Well not really, but woke up not feeling it. I wanted so bad to leave yesterday and didn’t. Today I did not even fuck with the decision.

I have super high anxiety right now and thought this was a good idea for everyone – for me to take the day off.

Saw Conga Ray with a conga drum after a long hiatus.
Singing, “Hot dog, I’m a homeless man.”
And the ever so subtle, “put my nose in your curly hair.”
He could do the finger push across the conga skin. The sound, “doooooaaaaa!”
Singing, “Poison Oak, it ain’t no joke.”

At 26th Avenue the wind set in and it was blowing hard – earlier with a calm wind... There were still a lot of people out there. Looked like a lot of kids. Good for them.

From there I went down the coast to my favorite parking spot: Half-way between The Hook and Privates.

Walk to the stairwell at The Hook and paddle out in that sweet channel.

On the way out I saw a guy walking through that had a cut across his nose and blood streaming down his face. Hmmm…

Hanging out for a while with some cool people it seemed. One of the dudes had the Patagonia wetsuit on. It looked nice, “like an old-school wetsuit,” I told him. Had some fun rides, but nothing serious and was OK with going in.

I told two of the guys out there that I was taking one for the team and going in, got the workout in by paddling over to the stairway at the end of 38th Avenue.

I walked back and saw there were more waves coming in so I went back down there to surf some more.

One of the guys – that I told I was leaving - was surprised to see me again. He was talking to a local dude from last week’s episode, and was like, “hey?”

Earplugs are good I think. Big smiles. Jesse Gomez.

Somehow, he and that guy suddenly dissapeared.

Waited out some good rides. Gotta give up rides. Gotta be good enough to give up rides and know that people will respect your chance. Don’t want to drop in on women especially.

One take off, I hit a kid who duck-dived right under me.

Next, I got a smoking ride, where I beat the section, but, someone dropped in on me. I was like, “hey, look out.” He said, that he “thought [I] didn’t make it.”

I told him about how I just ran over a kid’s knee.

Took a ride in and sat on the cliff base for a while watching surf go down and decided to go back out for some more.

I got the excellent take-off and commanding ride that made people back off. I kept beating the section – or the wave didn’t break. I prefer the former and when I rolled through, four or five people tried to paddle in and I looked at them and said, “don’t do it, don’t do it, please don’t do it… thank you…” as I passed through them. Good stuff. Now I could go in, and, I got props on that last ride before heading up the stairs.

Everything worked out for me to make all appointments – today at least.

I hope I can get just as fired up for tomorrow.