The big news on the internet of huge summer surf in California. Everybody goes. Me too.
I like the video from Trestles where in the intro they show people crowding waves. The finger, people colliding.
I woke up this morning at 5:00 – to hear the “cowbells.” Murph and Mac from 5 to 9 play Van Halen’s “Dance the Night Away.” And, I stayed up and went out the door to hit surf at Manresa. I see that there is supposed to be south swell there and I think of Fourth of July 2007; which was fun.
This is early for me. But, it felt less rushed. Less rushed to get back to work and made all my meetings and commitments (sharing the elevator with my boss on the way in!). Had good stoke for a long time, and got shit done, but then waited for the day to end and waited and waited…
Now planning for tomorrow morning and the camp trip!
There was a period this morning of good waves for me as I surfed a rip-current style bowl. I don’t think there was a problem… I had fun with all the lefts that I took aggressively, though clumsily. I got one very graceful right. It was excellent. I broke a sweat out there.
All before work.
Driving back over 17 there were many cars with surfboards on the roof – all shapes, sizes and configurations.
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