South Swell at Manresa/La Selva

It doesn't look like much from the cliff - or does it?

Those are chest to head-high peaks! (Check the fishermen for scale)

It was fun. Second day in a row of aggressive lefts, and breaking a sweat out there.

Now I am at the point where it is easier to drop in on a wave than to bail out. The psych-fish is good for me to make serious cut backs. (Current kook board, the fish)

I just need to be aware of when to do it. And how to visualize or predict a ride...

I had several thoughts out in the water that were profound:

1. Alot of my life, I have really been afraid of the ocean. Especially the body surfing I did Greenhorn style at the "point' in Newport Beach. With my hacksawed right fin. A cheap-ass summer special diving fin from Sav-on/Osco that I cut at a short angle.
2. Thinking of Goofy in the Disney Water Safety movie where he gets seriously launched out... but ends up on an island...
3. ...thinking of how I held the edge of the pool until I was in fifth grade.
4. Today at Arroyo Seco I was sketchy on the rock jump, but I did it. I did it only once - sorry Joaquin. That's all I had...
5. After the recovering hereoin addict/alcoholic hiking quest and wondering if I fucked up...
6. After an experienced surfer telling you that you are surfing a rip current...
7. After getting smoked by a rogue wave at Corona Del Mar... Cry cry cry! Nobody told me, "it happens..."

Same day, I am channeling the spirit of Maki out there. This is the function. Vicariousnessnessness...

And today I started conversation with the Soul Child at Lunardi's.

I asked her what happened to her eye?

She had a piercing - not a tatoo. She said, "no, I did not kill anyone." Or go to jail.

I always thought that was the ultimate expression of sadness. At some time I thought that'd be a good tatoo. (A good tatoo to not get a job with?)

At least I talked to her, but my conversation degenerated into how I regretted piercing ears because it's funky. She showed me one of those bars that spans her ear lobe. She said the guy that did it, told her, "If you don't clean it, your ear will fall off!"

Room for personal growth in Los Gatos. I like it here! Great way to take care of myself. I figured out how to make tranquil...

I also talked to the frumpy cashier at Lunardi's. It was like Lonely Island.

And, had an excellent convo with Jason from Peet's.


Hey, I thought this was the surf journal?