The reports said “flat,” but we caught the wind swell and an oncoming tide for some fun waist-high waves. They actually had great shape.
B-tech (?) and I were out there with another younger dude. I almost hit him going down the line, but avoiding him actually helped me thread the needle for an awesome ride.
Conditions were really good. It was sunny, warm, and the water was smooth. Fun waves with no ass-beating: got to try out conscious moves without the punishment.
I really like surfing with Greg Brost. It’s making it exciting and challenging and a learning experience all at the same time. Just like surfing with RD. Just like surfing with Eric Forsberg.
Tomorrow morning I am going to go out before work. I got to get it early. No flaky, flaky shit.
I've done it before, but the rest of the day is crappy because of the logistiks of the whole thing. Any good surf; 17 will take it from you. Much like, the 55 would [to me] in Orange County if I lived there and surfed in the morning before work.
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I get anxious while driving right now somehow. I don’t know about it but get impatient. Been riding the bike to work for a few days and I can bail on red lights or find alternatives. In the car you are a chump.
My car, Begley, got a new 144V battery. It’s as if the car has new life: Iron Man.
Still, I want to get to places, and can’t sense the journey. It seems absurd.
It has to be kept in mind… don’t trip. Don’t rush. It’s all an exercise.
Guilt is a factor. Why is that?
Think about it...
Mañana:
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