What an early day at work to go in and do a presentation. Good stuff but drank way too many beers last night. Counseling makes me thirsty… and gotta wash out what was brought up. Maybe like drinking a lot of water after getting a massage?
Also, I worked on the 7 in 7 project. No, it’s not a drink (although that would probably make more money). Soon we’ll learn more about this project.
I left work today after lunch and went home for a two-hour nap!
After that I drove to Santa Cruz to get some surf in. The drive was easy, and even found my way to several shortcuts that exist when trying to cross town from west to east.
I looked up Steamers. Not much there but evidence of long board frenzy earlier in the day. Someone said that Friday was supposed to be big: They said to me, “you’ll just have to call in sick that day.”
On a day like today I like to go to Opal Cliff and park on the street between 41st Av and Privates. That way, it’s a workout of walking, paddling, etc… There’s other shit to do if the waves aren’t good. Excellent people watching.
I paddled out right to the top of the first peak area. And was going to wait out for other folks to get their waves and then go. Just to avoid any vibe. But, opportunity presented itself and I got a big fat swell, tailor made just for me to ride well until it closed out. I could probably go home after that? Very fun.
Back out and had conversation with a few other folks. My board is very welcoming to others. Thank you Psych fish!
There was a guy out there that had a giant long-board; much more than ten feet long. I saw him make a killer ride when I was going out. But, he was doing the long board, janitor style ride. Coming in from way outside on a cruiser and dropping in on people who are inside – inside the curl. I don’t know what the true rules are here, but a few other dudes got pissed at him apparently.
Despite my ear plugs I could hear another guy tell him, “Hey bro, you should go over to 38th with that thing.” He says, “oh, no love here?” Not much was implied…
With earplugs – drifting in and out of the conversation, I hear the guy saying something about how the long board was “probably bought at Costco,” and that, “I don’t need to ride one because I’m not old and fat.”
Metaphorically, homey on the long board was also pretty thick skinned and stuck around despite being lectured by everyone.
I didn’t mind so much until he paddled into a wave I had; then he bailed and kicked the board out and the thing came within a foot of my face!
That’s not good, especially when he paddled back out and turned the battleship around and around at some raised angle out of the water in circles.
It was like helicopter blades – watch your head everyone.
Then he’d paddle over, sit up and squirt the giant 12 foot board with 8 foot leash out from between his legs. It would slap on the water and travel great distances until it suddenly stopped. Then he’d look at everyone and smile and laugh – like a fat little boy.
I especially respect the long board with no leash, because you can’t ditch the board.
I wanted to find the guy in the parking lot and tell him why people were trippin’ on him. Not to be a dick, but to foster understanding.
I loved floating away with ear plugs on. Once I got a good ride, I focused on the weightlessness in water to stretch out and space out. Resting on the board and drifting; I tuned the drama out. That guy will figure it out someday. As will everyone else.
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