6/30/09

Often you have an instinct that you need to be somewhere at a certain time.

This afternoon – the maybe fourth, fifth longest day of the year and the clouds read right that it might be exotic and I saw positive surf reports.

What else am I going to do between 6PM and 9PM - when you have those extra “saved” hours? Somehow I get to sleep in, so I’m a fan of it (daylight savings time).

Anyway, the surf gods shined and much respect to them.
The burly southwest swell survived – in fact – thrived on, the high tide.

I had been sheepish about going out lately, and going to the hook, especially. I haven’t surfed much since my trip to Istanbul – not during it either.

This decision to go slow is as much realism with me as it is respect to those “locals” at the hook to not go out when ill prepared. I thought that a fun video for this journal would be a re-enactment of the time that I got smashed against the rocks during a big November day – where somebody filmed me from the cliff-top.

When I looked from my scope spot at the metered diagonal parking north of Capitola Village I instantly drove back to do the hook to privates circuit – with my car parked half way between the two.

I don’t like the idea of walking alone the base of that cliff during a high tide, but I did and I did so cautiously.

I saw the local guy that looks pissed off and angry with his bleached/cropped hair. Excellent surfer, and I watched him while I was going out; but, maybe you’ve seen him in his jeep with the “I suck dick, ask me how” bumper sticker.

I sat down the line and tried to wait out the Dan Suriaga spot. The only wave I got there was the section-close-out-death thing that got me. I forgot my earplugs that I was so sold on because I wanted to get out so fast. It was breaking like a February afternoon all around me, but I felt like I needed to back off.

After sitting and trying to come to terms with the idea that I could leave and be OK, because I paddled out and did some serious and successful duck-diving, I decided I needed to stay, so I moved up to the 2nd break at the hook. (I don’t know what it is called and I don’t care. )

At that spot I got a killer ride, where I beat the section and got a considerably long ride.

I thought about – ok I stoked enough to walk away; but I went out for another.

Talked about the quality of the waves with a beautiful woman on red surf board and when I paddled into one of them, she cheered me on.

And I got another.

Rides were usually 5 cut backs, somehow re-loading the spring each time. Very fast. I tried to rock through it for speed, I hope I did. I beat some serious shit I think. Sometimes I’d cut but the Psychedelic fish sticks to the water. I didn’t eat it though.

I smoked right on past someone who was paddling out.

And then kept going, up and down and back – deep bottom turns


Hahahahah hehehehehe hahahhehehahhehhehehhaaaahhahaha