Crazy seat-of-the-pants ride to the airport.
Going to visit family in Southern California: Mom, Brothers, Sisters, Nieces, Great-Nieces, Nephews, Great-Nephews – In-laws, Dogs, etc. …
The great-nephew, at two, is older than the great-niece by five months. However, the great-nephew’s mother is thirteen years younger than the great-niece’s.
Are you keeping track? Good; because my newest nephew is only two months old!
I know, we’re from Kentucky…
But, my Mom was hecka proud and wanted pictures. Good for her. What do you really have in this world besides pro-creation?
Anyway, crazy seat-of-the-pants trip – adding the surf trip (to give me purpose?).
4:30 AM wake up for 6:30 flight to go to airport and take plane with 6 people to southern California.
Flying over the coast – ever observant: Check out the picture of the Coastal Eddy at Point Conception. I’m going to explain in a different post someday.
Hit the airport and get a Yaris for $48. I’m sure I would’ve got a better deal on-line. But, I met a good dude there who knew about San Jose State. You Know!
Went in the car to make the connect with guy at the liquor store. Potential networking in the future… and to get some necessities.
I drove the Hwy- 73 toll road to I-5 in Mission Viejo at a cost of $4.50.
I somehow remembered the Rip-Curl shop there at the staging area for Trestles so I got a board there. I was on the cusp of the performance board. But took a 7’6” NSP board. Go epoxy! Go surf betty! It had the rounded nose – to me it seemed like a long board and I rode it that way. It seemed so different than the foot shorter psychedelic fish that I ride now.
Trestles always looks so nice from the road. I headed for San Onofre’s Trails and drove all the way to trail 5. It was as crowded as I’ve ever seen it, a lot of campers.
The reports were all thumbs up!
Went in the car to make the connect with guy at the liquor store. Potential networking in the future… and to get some necessities.
I drove the Hwy- 73 toll road to I-5 in Mission Viejo at a cost of $4.50.
I somehow remembered the Rip-Curl shop there at the staging area for Trestles so I got a board there. I was on the cusp of the performance board. But took a 7’6” NSP board. Go epoxy! Go surf betty! It had the rounded nose – to me it seemed like a long board and I rode it that way. It seemed so different than the foot shorter psychedelic fish that I ride now.
Trestles always looks so nice from the road. I headed for San Onofre’s Trails and drove all the way to trail 5. It was as crowded as I’ve ever seen it, a lot of campers.
The reports were all thumbs up!
But, I got the “should’ve been here yesterday” vibe.
Headed on down and rode that thing like I long board to me. Made me think of the 8’9” Junod board I had when I started surfing 10 years ago. I mostly rode it with my feet close together on the near front edges of the board. Trying to walk or cheat the nose and have fun in the surf with the close-outs and multiple sections. Best I could with the board I had – it was actually a good choice for where I was.
I learned that rash-guards are not wetsuits. I don’t have much body-fat and after the first hour – pushed up the coast by the south current to trail 4, my hands were blue. Also because of the lull in surf… Once a few sets come in, cold is the last thing to think about.
And I trashed my toe – trying to go barefoot (I’ll explain later).
Headed on down and rode that thing like I long board to me. Made me think of the 8’9” Junod board I had when I started surfing 10 years ago. I mostly rode it with my feet close together on the near front edges of the board. Trying to walk or cheat the nose and have fun in the surf with the close-outs and multiple sections. Best I could with the board I had – it was actually a good choice for where I was.
I learned that rash-guards are not wetsuits. I don’t have much body-fat and after the first hour – pushed up the coast by the south current to trail 4, my hands were blue. Also because of the lull in surf… Once a few sets come in, cold is the last thing to think about.
And I trashed my toe – trying to go barefoot (I’ll explain later).
Got the sun burn on my knees because I never wear shorts. Got the sun-burn because closer to the sun, etc…
Good stuff because Mission Accomplished. Lost count of how many rides I had and that’s always a qualifier of a good day. Tearing down big walls; going left half the way, and then going right…
Good stuff because Mission Accomplished. Lost count of how many rides I had and that’s always a qualifier of a good day. Tearing down big walls; going left half the way, and then going right…
Checking out the surf-culture of San Clemente.
Look at these pictures. I felt bad about the kids with boogie boards, but it works out because dumb-asses need spelling lessons!
Much more to say: Wrote a song about it, like to hear it, here it go
Don’t worry…
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