More experiment in surf before work.
6:00 AM – decide to do it or not… (I know, "Valley Kook Pussy")
I actually woke up at 5:30 and thought about how I should just go. But then got the magic earphones on and slept more.
I’m glad I went. I packed the car the night before so it was easy to go. I even brought my clothes with me…
It was foggy, wrinkled, and a tide that was very low – but incoming.
I had fun. No one was there but the fisherman and the ranger. There were several small but fun peaks. Had a few fun lefts that helped to practice the take-off, etc… Then I had a very fun right on a little pop-up peak that I rode pretty aggressively. This is why I like the fish that I have… (Today I saw a skateboard that looked like it)
I am stoked to have surfed with Greg Brost for the last few days. That’s a blessing for sure. It lends certain awareness to what is going on out in the water. It has helped re-evaluate what is “surfable” and what “good-surf” really means…
…how to make the most out of what you get.
Either way, alone today, I had a nice reflective time out in the water. It was cloudy, but foggy pearl light and no wind, very nice and gentle.
A great way to start the day.
How do I deal after…?
It’s a good buzz, with less anxiety I think – today at least (because I could remember one sweet ride when I conjured). But, I get tired and hungry. I haven’t craved pizza with ranch dressing for lunch in a long time!
Today I ate blueberry bagels with peanut butter and ½ of the Wholefoods Blueberry Muffin – which, by the way, has no paper cup around the base. It seemed OK.
Yesterday I ate the Costco muffin after I broke it in ½ and covered each inside-side with Peanut Butter.
Inconclusive so far…
Today was also fun afterwards because work was challenging (in a good way) and I got important shit done and then walked away.
Giants lose :(
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