The last few days have been heavy. I know it is far heavier for others than myself, but I needed to break. Trying manage anxiety. I don't want to be worthless. Hope I can come back strong for Saturday and Sunday.
Good sleeping at Greg's house. Got up and watched a little TV on the internet and went to Manresa for some sloppy surf, but the weather was great.
Shopped for a new board for the winter, and ate the huge chill-out cafe burrito.
Came back to Greg's and slept some more.
I got up and hit the west side to check the surf and noticed that they are doing a paving job on West Cliff. No parking as all the lots got scraped - all those dudes in the motor homes got chased out looks like.
The wind at Steamer Lane shut everything down. But, on the other side of the lighthouse point the wind changed and almost disappeared.
After hiking around Its Beach and checking out the arch there and doing some acrobatic rock walking I got in the car and went to 4-mile.
Good stuff. That's all I can say for now, though I totally blew it with trying to split a peak with someone else. I didn't realize until I stood up that I burned this guy (because I thought he was going to burn me). I didn't pay attention; didn't communicate. Sound familiar?
Plus, I should know about different places and how the take-offs are different at these places.
I went back out and the guy was way cool.
I got back in via a nice chest high right peak where I took off right from the top of the frame, and then cut back in to it at a near stall for the second part of the wave which was fun.
The next wave had that dude's buddy on it so I told him to pass the message. He said, don't worry, my friend doesn't trip on that stuff. True. Thankfully so.
I like the good vibe and go back to the car at dusk under a full moon.
This time of year here is awesome.
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