Dia de los indigenous.
Whatever you want to call it.
Maybe considered an excessive holiday these days.
DMV workers were told to work, when their Union told them not to.
?
I woke up this morning to some gnarly dreams of trying to leave a country that is rapidly falling apart because of political issues resulting in extreme (and creepy) violence.
??
Out the door and over to Manresa to look at the red tide walls... My feeling was to go to surf at Privates and Sharks, but it did not quite set up that way. I ended up at the Hook; paddling out from the stairs at 38th.
I ended up getting two decent rides, the last one in particular I was able to beat the section out. I had my fish groove on to blow through and under a few throwing lips. Some local gave me a strong thumbs up. (I hope that was his thumb!)
However, kinda burnt out with the weather change and other stuff right now and felt like I needed to get out - was tired too. I also somehow felt I was going to get to trouble out there anyway. I was ruminating on confronting this dude who was an ass to me in the past.
I'm glad that I can listen to myself...
After getting out, I went to Chillout-Cafe and heard a killer Alicia Keyes song (shoosh, my hearrt melted). Yet, decided to wait to eat and drove to the west side of town.
I sat there, amazed at the size of the surf, but the water was red-tide colored and I just wasn't feeling it. So I ate the food coma inducer and napped in the car, then woke up and walked over to check out Mitchell Cove.
I attained a deeper appreciation for Lighthouse Field today. I saw the monarchs and I read the plaque about how the land was blocked from development in the '70's. Good. On rainy blown out days, I may just wander through there.
Also while walking around, I found out from one of the local dudes - burning sage and playing flute, that Conga Ray is living well up in Davenport. I'm stoked to hear that that dude took him in then.
Watch that scene... Damn Crazy! Some cat passed out in the iceplant!
On the way out I went to Brost's house and he met me at Haut to check out this board that I almost bought today. However, this meeting ended with him agreeing to shape me a board! Sweet:
- 6'8"... 6'10"
- Slightly under 20 inches wide,
- three fins,
- with a pin tail...
Waiting for the gnarly rainstorm... (this is this afternoon's GOES West Coast Satellite Image - showing Water Vapor)

Let's see how the pre-press prediction compares to the actual.
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