Nice up and out in the morning. Still kinda hot overnight, which is good…
I went back to the Oceanview spot again. It was just as crowded as yesterday in the parking lot.
Today was a bit bigger than yesterday and with the west swell it was wall and closeout time. Very fast rides unless you caught the shoulder. I got a few of those which was good. But, there was a lot of dropping left and then pig dogging out the back.
Not much else to say…
I enjoy days like this and stayed out for at least two hours. It was real nice to be out. Manresa is one of my favorite spots and I feel real comfortable there.
I know a big winter day will keep me in awe. Don’t get me wrong, I do respect it; sometimes it just feels good to be out there.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment