10/16/09

I left work at 4 so I could get out in the water before sun-down. Plus the conditions were prime. Incoming Low to High tide with a solid west swell. Also crossed up with that hurricane stuff; and as I found later the cliff wave reflection.

I had plans to go earlier, but had to schmooze with politicians...

Everything works out.

I surfed at Steamer Lane - actually trying to hold down "the point." Fun, but I struggled to get waves without locals already on them. When I had my own personal wave set up, I get smacked in the face by the wave lip. Somehow, I couldn't think to accelerate out of trouble so I got beat.

It was either here, or earlier while paddling out on the reef, that I punctured the bottom of my board. A nice 4 inch long, 1/4 inch deep gouge.

Days like today really tell me a lot about my skill level. So many better surfers out there that I yield to or just get snaked by (half my age or less). Other waves with the lip throw and the cliff reflection wave - where the bottom all of a sudden drops out.

Or, I get in the spot where I do get a wave but have to snake through other surfers sitting inside that don't really try to get out of your way - or just don't know to get out of the way. I sprayed on one. hehehe. What do you expect going to "the Lame" anyway?

Despite the board gouge and the poor performance, someone commented that I had a big smile. Good: "Catch a Wave (and you're sittin' on top of the world)!"

It has been warm and even in my 3/2 suit I am breaking a sweat. Getting out of the water I noticed some serious heat radiating from the rocks while walking up the stairs.

This is a great time of year here. The weather is excellent. Of course, it will get nasty in a month from now. Like it was on Tuesday.

Did I wait long enough for the first storm flush to subside? Not quite 72 hours, but I think OK. People were complaining/worried about it in the water. Earplugs are hard on communication. It's the Rush Limbaugh effect: You don't listen, and you talk loud.

You want to make jokes about how we're swine flu incubators out here but that conversation would be awkward.