More excellent sleep at Casa del Rose. Hard to get up from that shit. That's my old bed.
Got out the door for a surf session at the Oceanview stairs. For several reasons, I was panicky and in a hurry. Much anxiety.
At least I remembered to call in a Breakfast Burrito order at Taqueria Los Gordos...
I charged into the water like I like to, like any relief pitcher should charge from the bullpen to the mound.
This is the third session in two days. Got in and got my five rides in some weird red tide cross up surf. "It looks like somebody dumped a bunch of coffee in the ocean." (Btech)
Tonight I am seeing waves when I close my eyes. I like this.
I don't know why I feel some much more comfortable going left at Manresa. Although I am backside, this seems to be the ride. I always felt super comfortable going left while bodysurfing, charging with my left arm forward. This is a lot like that. Especially when you get to disappear into a curl and out the back without getting beat. The short board (my fish - that is as tall as I am) helps you squirt out the back easily.
I did a sick barrel roll while bodysurfing at 15th St in Newport Beach (aka: the Point) on xmas day 1999 for Darryl Hoguin (my brother in law) to see. I recall I was going left then. hehehehe
I got to meet this gal I have often seen at Sand Dollar and now know her name is Stephanie.
She's hard core and always wears gloves. ?
When I took my last ride in, I tried to give her my spray. Much respect
Otherwise, spent the afternoon trying to rustle up a cat!
How to outsmart a missing cat?
a. Call the owners in a panic; the cat will the appear at your feet.
b. Go in to town and get some coffee; Cat will appear when you return.
c. Shake the food bag and yell kitty, kitty, kitty.
Today, the correct answer was b.
Peace
No comments:
Post a Comment