As I said yesterday, everything works out.
Though I lagged this morning. I found my way to Manresa and got in the water for an hour or two.
The beach got thrashed in the recent storm. It was scalloped too with a bunch of logs and seaweed bundles scattered everywhere. You could see where the run-off scoured the beach just south of the parking lot. This is good. It is what makes sand bars.
It was fun out there for sure, but a strange day. The waves were big, but soft and mushy. It was fun to drop in on them. Everybody was cool too. I got a good left out there that I remember well. There was a lot of digging through the waves, a lot of duck diving; getting outside.
There was also a lot of "shit floating in the water," but it wasn't trash per se - like you'd see in Orange County, it was more like yard waste: Leaves and pine needles. It would swirl in brown pools. Kinda trippy actually.
After that I went to the Bigfoot discovery day event and even got to chill with Joaquin.
I am trying to go back tomorrow morning to the Beach Break.
I hope to shred - or at least get a work out and then come home and sleep and do chores.
And maybe type up a new entry
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