I like surfing before work.
Once you get your second wind, and, literally, clean the sand out of your eyes, you have a productive day. Enough productivity, that instead of wanting to go back home and nap, you go back for some more after work.
In the morning I met Btech at the Oceanview parking lot. It was big and walled but we went anyway. On days like this you can maybe hang out inside and catch surfable waves, but the tendency is to paddle way outside to avoid the beating you take inside.
It was impressive and I was simply pleased to be there and that I could paddle out without incident. Usually, getting out at the beach break is near impossible. It is good exercise; and good preparation for the upcoming season change.
I didn’t ride any waves; I tried to drop in on a left, but sheepishly fell out the back.
I did ride the inside white wash like a boogie board for several yards back to the beach. Some people would be stoked to do that! More people should just do that. Especially before work. (Note: Is “Boogie Board” also like Kleenex and Xerox, dare I say Tampon?)
It was just fun to go out like that before work what with the diminishing time. 12 hours equal sunlight and daylight. Now, before time change: 7am to 7pm. The equinox, etc… habla, habla, habla… “Effective twilight,” is important to note too.
I got to work, ½ hour late for a presentation that I had to do, but it all went OK anyway.
Let me recognize that!
After work I drove back over and fought some traffic, as someone drove off the hillside.
My intuition was the Westside - that and trying to stay out of the fishhook.
I drove through and ended up at Natural Bridges.
But, I parked outside and hiked it in.
While suiting up, I had an interaction with another acid trip kid who has spent the entire day down in one of the many Westside coves. On the way through, there was a cliff party with a bunch of (I presume), Westside surfers who were drinking Coors light and yelling at the people out in the water.
The acid case was telling me how he gets spit on in Santa Cruz by local white hate group people. Of course he was drooling at the mouth when he was telling about this.
This was the first time in my life I surfed at Natural Bridges. It wasn’t so crowded, but the tide got funky out there and right barrels eventually disappeared with the people. Last I was out there, was with some UCSC student who, “moved up here from San Diego and [doesn’t] want to go back.”
Fun stuff, but it is always challenging to go to a different spot. At this place it seemed like backwash was a low-tide phenomenon. Waves would appear to throw and then back off and then throw real fast. Go fast right or eat the reef. Score one for surfing in wetsuits.
Funny story, on the way out, I saw the SJSU Women’s Basketball team doing their photo shoot along the sunseted cliffs of Natural Bridges.
A year ago this was a crucible for me. A poker game, if you will. Vulcan mind fuck. Thank you fluoxetine! Not only did you help me, but help Greg buy a house!
I am not racist. I don’t tolerate bullshit and had to lock down. I love purposeful resolve.
Friday night, September 2009 – me with my surf board and those gals trippin’ out (just like me) on the chance meeting. Speaking of chance, I got to speak to the head coach and told her I was sorry to cause shit for her. But, she said emphatically that she liked my move. Awesome!
“I don’t teach this year,” I told her, and I told her that, “I don’t miss the mind fuck that goes along with teaching people – especially people who aren’t willing to listen.”
Hey, I’m not a dumbass; when I went to school I purposely avoided night classes as much as possible so I wouldn’t doze off. Granted, I was also a talkative and rude, “jackass,” or at least in to it. I don’t know, ask Greg Rose. But, I think I finally paid my dues off. Sorry to my many instructors and professors. I guess I knew I was going to be one too and it made me competitive. Now I finally get that letting students lead is the way to go, no more ego. It’s awesome like that. I got hired to teach there!
Hopefully this story will continue… I just sent an email to Dr. Taketa telling him about it…
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