I totally slept in.
Was all about I was going to charge in the morning at dawn. But I lay there in bed until 11. I know, read it and weep.
What I like about surfing as a sport however, is that sometimes your choices are justified. The last thing I needed to do apparently was get out of rest (that maybe I haven’t had in a long time).
It turns out I was very pleased with my two hour session.
I have been waiting for that day where the weather is like it was when I tagged along with Greg on his “hiking to Monterey from Santa Cruz on the tide line” trip. We only made it to Moss Landing and within two days the weather went from hot land to sea breeze – to fog drip in 48 hours…
Today was good – sunny – this is the summer up here I think; and the waves were gentle. I had fun and lost the ride count. It was elegant. I got some cheers from the boogie board dad.
I really prefer to go left there and am trying to get the backside take off thing. I know I paddle into it differently than I do a right… On a left, I grab the water as if it were a rope.
Today was fun.
I was all tripping that it was crowded and everyone was there in the parking area. The bikers with surfboards. The bikers with giant pink phallic surfboards.
But I did the walk south and - what I love about the Manresa Beach break is - that you can get your solitude if you want it.
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