9/13/09 - The mighty North Pacific returns.

Too big this morning.

First I went to Manresa. Big walls. A "direct swell" I hear (no angle), and no sand bars. Just walls.

Next, I drove to Rio Del Mar thinking "I'd catch a corner." But it was more of the same.

I suited up though, walked all the way down past the private homes and just sat and watched the waves for 1/2 hour. There were people out there, but I only saw one ride. Another guy split his lip and hurt his ankle.

I saw one spitting barrel that was beautiful. One in a million, and to chase that one down you'd get punished. Like attractive women...

I was actually content to watch the Pelicans surf the waves like they do (where they kick off right as the wave snaps).

I drove and checked out the hook and all that and saw a ton of people.

So I went home.

The whole thing seems to me now to be about bargaining. Why didn't I go today? Why haven't I gone during the week before work? Why didn't I do the kick turn? Why am I not more aggressive?

Well I did today. And as I said. It was peaceful to sit there and watch the waves.

I went home and slept, listened to the 49rs win!

I read about Joe Wilson, and the 9/12 rally with, "One and a half million people."

You lie too. You are down with the confederacy, and I think you apologized with your fingers crossed. Which is worse than swearing on the bible. But if its held by strom thurmond does that count? Hehehehe

I also read about Michael Jordan's NBA Hall of Fame acceptance speech. He said, "someone told me there is no "I" in team (after he laid on 20 points at the end of a game). "I said, yeah, but there's an "I" in win, isn't there?"

I read about, Serena Williams going off at the US open: http://sports.yahoo.com/ten/blog/busted_racquet/

"...it got worse from there. There were multiple profanities, more threats and a lot of pointing. Serena was soon defending herself against accusations that she had threatened to kill the lines judge. Even [commentator] John McEnroe said it was a bit much."

This is why I love sports. For example, type "Byron Hout" into a search engine. Hell, look up "Randy Johnson hits bird" while you're at it.


I got back in the car and drove to Steamer Lane at about five.

I got some of those steep peaks. Shoosh. Big Waves. I had one ride that was very memorable as I made it through a few rough sections and under some lips. But with the high tide there was a lot of back wash that killed any paddle momentum. It rained and just like it took me a few minutes to get psyched up to get in; it took me a while to get out too. With high tide, the stairs are hard to negotiate and I saw someone get smashed on the rocks while trying to get in.

Out in the water, this one girl had a bloody nose.

The mighty North Pacific returns.

Right at dusk, it started raining.