Labor Day

I labored to leave the house at a decent hour. Somehow I imagined surfing for 5 or 6 hours.
I am a dumbass... I slept until noon!

In the afternoon I went to 4-mile and it was crowded and everything, but I paddled out and sat at the top of the peak for a while. Once I got my shit together that is.

This was good. I hadn't been for a week and I paddled out with my leash still wrapped around the board. No wonder I didn't get tangled in any kelp.

So, later I got stuck out there trying to attach my leash in the kelp beds.

The kelp beds are one of the only things that take the wind sting out of the waves, however.

It’s complicated…

I got a giant spilling wave that had shape all the way in. Very good ride. Trying to copy that guy from last week with his hula-hoop move down the line.

That ride got me some respect.

Another, I was ready to pop-and-turn, but caught in kelp.

Got another out there, I rode well, but I fell right into the section. I figured one ride was good enough; I just wanted to paddle in and get the work out.

I kept sticking around and there was the inside wave to hang with the female surfers holding it down. Trying to share as much as possible… watching them do incredible shit as they take off before you…

More silly rides in wind chop. Good enough for me.


Now, here’s the problem:

I’ll go to bed early, I swear off alcohol. But I sleep in. I dream of surfing, I dream of ex-girlfriends, but in reality I don’t do it. I stay in bed and do not go. I don’t do anything.

I felt this morning was the crispy, but crackin’ warm days of fall in the Bay Area when I drove to work. This is why I like it here. I regretted not going. I’ll try tomorrow. Soon the surf before work window will close as the sun won’t rise until 8am; up ‘til the change of daylight savings to standard time.

Then, the mornings may be too brutal.

I am hoping for the bright sunny off-shore winds (Land to Sea breezes)* to hit Manresa with peaks before it becomes too brutal in the winter to ride. Somehow though, in the winter, when nothing else is happening, this place may go off!

*Fritz Coleman v. Geography Instructor