Last Day of August

This is from the drug store calendar I bought that has killer images…

…and biblical quotes:

Let the Heavens Rejoice
Let the Earth be glad
Let the Sea Resound
And all that is in it.
Psalm 96:4

I guess it made me call in sick. Hallelujah!

Now Psalm 96 is kinda hardcore otherwise and I don't endorse entirely. But whoever is responsible for the interface of the sea and the land, nice work. I'll praise that any day - no doubt. (the picture in the calendar shows a sea stack silhouetted at sunset or sunrise)


So I went to Sewer Peak and paddled over there from the stairs at 38th. I even surfed a few little peaks there before heading out.

There were mostly long-boards out there.

I missed the first golden opportunity. But saw that those were the waves to get. One of these head high waves in a set about every ten minutes or so, and somehow because it was mid-morning and it wasn’t very big it was pretty empty.

I got to be a big fish somehow. I got three of these good ones and the last one pretty much all the way in. I love when I can sneak into that place, get rides and walk away stoked. I know my last ride rocked - it had speed and rhythm. And then I was able to jump off and ride on my chest in the white wash up to the stairs.

I wish I could see what I did. That would help…

From there I went to Chill-out Café to eat a giant breakfast burrito (at 2pm). I always like the women that work there.

And from there I drove to four-mile. Like the psalm maybe…

It was windy and moving all over the place. I felt like a rock because of the burrito. I got worked on the paddle ins, and the wind was blowing water in our faces.

I struggled but stayed out there and got a few, but again, mostly paddling too much. By the time I left I was able to get a decent ride that took me right up to the shore. I decided to go in. I wish I could stay, but I would be like the kid in the candy store – who has no money. I was stoked about those rides today. The last ones at both places were good.

I am pretty faded right now. When I looked at the surf reports tonight, I feel like I’m over it. I’m not impressed by any of it right now. Maybe that’s not so accurate. I’m more trying to manage my own expectations… I want to punt. I want to do 360s. I want to surf for four or more hours and be stoked – not exhausted.

I aint’ a twenty year old. I’ve already had a mullet and day-glow sunglasses. I have to be realistic, though. This is something that could cause depression.


Here it is by the way: I predict the return of the mullet! Go with the trends - go with nostalgia… I hope it might also be the ironic return of the Mullet, aka: the Tennessee top hat, the Canadian passport, the Missouri compromise, the Kentucky waterfall, the Trailer park tail, the White trash weave.

Next project: The geography of the mullet. Why not?