Well, I didn’t sleep worth shit last night and all day felt like it - that is obvious. I would sleep for two hours and then wake up and space for an hour. Then go back to sleep.
I had dreams about just going into waves, without a surfboard, and float into the break, just to see inside a tube. Well, this became the essence of body surfing at some point for me, but my ears got thrashed by having my head - my ears particularly - right at the water line.
At work I paced a lot and I certainly didn’t want to stay. I spent a lot of time with my arms folded – I got everything done as soon as I could.
I was at someone’s desk this morning (someone I haven’t worked well in the past with) and my forehead was drenched in sweat.
Then I had to go and talk to another set of folks in another department all together and try to make nice with them too.
I was trippin’ for sure, but decided to take the elevator to the 18th floor and test to see if the anxiety had a vertigo component.
Finally, someone sent me an email that made me laugh and I ended up staying. It was not meant to be funny, however…
Good conversation with my boss about it too. That’s really why I stayed – I got challenged.
It all seemed to work out though. I went home and got my gear and drove over into some foggy weather. Somehow, the ocean was pretty calm I noticed in town. But it looked crowded for small waves and there was a lot of kelp.
Because it was so calm and foggy I had a strong hunch about Manresa. It seemed like it was morning. In San Jose, however, weather had 25 mph NW winds? This is all a big puzzle to me. An ongoing Geographic puzzle!
I got in about 6:45pm and stayed until it got dark - for the much ballyhooed "evening glass-off."
There was a ton of sea-life.
I had a jelly-fish/man-o-war float right up next to me and you’d think I saw a shark. It looked cool though - like a white and purple blown glass necklace.
There were several dolphins out there and they were powering the shoulders of the waves. Now that's splendid.
It set up pretty good for a place on a summer afternoon/evening 2 to 3 people sharing little waist high peaks.
There was a time where it all came together really nice with the brief barrel lefts (and if I didn’t stay at work I wouldn’t have been here for it).
Then it got too dark and the tide got too low.
Hmmm
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