Today hardcore, tomorrow really sore…

Two sessions today, "something to write about." Sorry you gotta hear my shit twice.

One in AM at Manresa before work and the second at Pleasure Point after work…

Shoosh!


Highlights

The morning had good surf despite the long waiting periods.

I potato chipped the whole thing.

I thought I’d leave and get a jump on the drive to work. But, a killer wave was the “last one” I rode in on – I had a nice set up even though I had to force the board into it. So of course I went back out as that was the start of another long awaited set.

I don’t know if that’s like potato chips (and not being able to stop) or more like a five year old kid playing in the surf at the beach when they gotta leave…

I also watched Greg score a killer left that made me wish I was goofy foot.

Whatever - I wouldn’t trade my fast left that let me hang on the exploding wall. Good way to start the day.

Btech talked about how he had been surfing at Sewers the last few days. I felt bad not to go there this morning. So, after work, I went back to Pleasure Point to check it out in the afternoon. I don’t really like that place and that’s why I didn’t want to go there before work.

In the afternoon it was very windy. Today’s weather was strange – it was like a blustery fall day telling you that the weather is changing.

On the paddle out I was crabby, wind splashing in my face, feeling funky, the seaweed, the vibe…

Trying to find a place to catch shoulders… but I would lag behind the wave and then get stuck on that reef and then with Statler and Waldorf up on the cliff, who knows what negative energy they’re throwing down?

I had several rides, and they were fun, but I lagged and lagged. I tried to paddle in with super spray in the face. Watching some really good people tear it up.

I got persistent, and paddled out by the dude in the blue wet-suit with the killer hair and asked him what he was doing to stay ahead of the wave. He said, “go at a 45 degree angle to the when you take off – don’t go straight. I’d been watching long-boarders out here. That’s their move.

Another set of waves came in. This guy took one right before me all the way in. Somehow I was in the right spot to do exactly what he said and it had a massive payoff.

Totally thankful to that advice!


I hope that that is not an embarrassment because you watched me get the excellent stoke because of your advice.

That’s the crux of this shit. Am I blowing it as a dilettante?

Read a bunch of stuff today about rating ability.

I don’t know.

Now listening to some blues music and think of summer 2002 where I would go and play bass at open jams at JJ’s blues on Stevens Creek, and then walk back to my apartment on Meridian with the bass strapped to my back. I even had to get the case fixed because of this!

Sure that’s fucked up, but I could always draw on that for inspiration later on.