Saturday, June 27, 2009

6/27/09 - Surf Journal goes Online

After 4 hand-written composition books, the Surf Journal goes online!

Yes, starting in Fall '06 I hand wrote a journal as much as I could. The most consistent journal of my life. Four of 'em. All willed to Dave Lipnicke. Though he may not like them... But, maybe it will be like the killer poetry journal in wrote in high school.

The only "A" grade I got in English - and my only AP class in high school.


Ok, enough fanfare - lower those expectations...


Summer surf at Manresa.
It was in fact all summery there. Hot sun and calm wind.
Good stuff, but you have to get up early, because it may sound like a Wilco record title...



Fog squall
Wind shift
Chop

...but it's not.


Fog bank hung at the coast and turned things crappy.

Either way, fun lefts. Got some good rides just because its good to be back out there. I've taken considerable time off since the Turkey trip.

I'm going to go back to the same place tomorrow. Hope to be early. At least just beat the traffic.

I don't think I'm ready to go to Waddell or Scott Creek or Davenport or 4 Mile. Especially when it is on a weekend.

Yes, this is where I'm telling everyone where to go.

Trying to be responsible...

Went and chilled on west side of town for a while, where there was no surf and marveled at how it was chilly right at the surf line, but step inland and get roasted.

Met up with Greg and Joaquin at New Brighton. I'm sure his 12 seconds is going off on it.

Went up to his house and chilled in the cool cellar.

Came home, listened to Giants game, posted this thing, went to bed at dusk.

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