6/28/09

Woke up earlier today than I did yesterday but it didn’t matter because I went to see more fog squall chop at Manresa.

From there I drove all the way to Waddell Creek and then drove all the way back down to Manresa.

Note the new paving job that was done at Davenport Landing. I'll find out later about the grousing locals...

Since I drove around so much, I bought the Chorizo breakfast burrito as if I actually surfed.

That was enough so I went home and slept in a semi cool apartment.
Everywhere – except right at the surf zone was hot.

I went to great lengths to keep my place cool. It seems like it is easier to sleep now-a-days than do anything and I am disappointed at myself because of this. The sleep at times, though, is glorious. That’s good, I know a lot about insomnia – forced or not.

Some surf wax melted in the car. But that’s ok, it peels off and it smells so much better than ass and feet.

One of my top-five favorite smells is surf wax. Some guy was complaining about it earlier. In his 90’s hoopty nissan. Dude: it could be cigarette burns! You should be so lucky.

I remember the Lipnicke Motors 626 and how I wedged surf wax to seal the leak in the trunk and ended up using a towel with surf wax on it to polish the car.

That car was a reality check for dates. Did they diss the car or did they like it?

I think sometimes I liked the car more at the time than I did surfing, and going to places in it – with its tight clutch. After a year of hauling that car over 17 to surf, and to teach at Cabrillo, I moved to Santa Cruz. This was, of course, under the premise that I’d surf more.

I got an ear infection the first month in from body-surfing at 14th Avenue; that and swimming laps from landmark to landmark at Seabright beach. That and stress - no doubt.

There was a lot of drinking. I lived 100 meters, more or less, from Brady’s Yacht club.
Drinking and music only. Not much surfing. That and teaching at Cabrillo, working at the city of San Jose

Driving to San Juan Bautista very occasionally. The much ballyhooed and sought after 19 year old girlfriend was sharing meningitis with me!

It’s not what it seems; it’s hard to hold down.

Bad soul shit.