Happy Thanksgiving

I am thankful that several people invited me to their celebrations.

Instead, I spent the whole afternoon out in the water. I was at Pleasure Point for a while and then went to Steamer lane.

Yesterday afternoon was a trip to Manresa.

Nowadays is like re-learning how to surf with this new board. It is frustrating. Waves are everywhere that I'm not. I can't seem to get to them - or in them, fast enough.

All day today spent energy at Pleasure Point after paddling out at from the stairs at 38th. I made it through to the first peak, got caught inside, but made it out... I guess this is my fate right now and I'm trying not to get bummed...

But the surf was 15 feet, so at least now I know I can get out there and deal with it.

After being cooked I went to Steamer Lane but made the mistake of paddling out from the statue and not further up. I had zero strength to paddle Northwest...

I need to take better care of myself to get ready for this. I also felt kinda timid, but I want to think that maybe I'm OK with that. I'm tired of having to be aggressive to get waves, maybe soon, I'll see that it isn't like that, that it doesn't have to be that way.