In the morning I went to Sand Dollar.
It was big and shifty and the paddle out was brutal. I didn't get many rides, but it was pretty to be out there. There was ride-able space, just hard to get every time. Another foot smaller and it might've worked better, but the huge surf last week chewed out a parallel trough. Big waves would come in and then exhaust right at the thing. Bigger waves that would make it through the trough would wall out...
Kinda frustrating...
But, new board, and the south beach break. I probably would've gotten frustrated in town. I love the solitude at Manresa.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In keeping with plans for the day, I drove north and surfed some more. Except, before the second session I got the hook up at the Seascape Market:
The surplus breakfast burrito with black-beans, eggs and potatoes and bacon. 1/2 price after 12 noon. They stop making breakfast at 10:30am.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I ate only 1/8th of that burrito and headed out at the bush creek trestle.
I cannot believe how calm and beautiful it all was, but the waves were still challenging and the beach break got funkier as the tide changed. It might've been a better choice to go here as the tide was rising...
Whatever, I finally got two good rides on the new board!
The first one was a left that got real fast and I took it through to the shore barrel. The water turned sandy brown and I went into the washing machine. I felt sure I'd hit the floor, but instead I landed on one of the fins right on my lower left back. Ouch.
Got another right with some fun moves and a cut back. Then everything changed to super shore death.
Trying to figure this board out.
Trying to figure out what the hell I am doing.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anyway... ate the rest of that killer burrito.
AND, got to see Greg and Joaquin at Toys-r-us. Cool to see Greg holding down fatherhood so well.
After that, I drove home listening to This American Life and the widow of Spaulding Grey.
Napping with visions of waves and such great sleep in the afternoon. No bad dreams. Wake up and think you've slept for twenty hours - ten times as much as you actually did.
In keeping with plans for the day, I drove north and surfed some more. Except, before the second session I got the hook up at the Seascape Market:
The surplus breakfast burrito with black-beans, eggs and potatoes and bacon. 1/2 price after 12 noon. They stop making breakfast at 10:30am.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I ate only 1/8th of that burrito and headed out at the bush creek trestle.
I cannot believe how calm and beautiful it all was, but the waves were still challenging and the beach break got funkier as the tide changed. It might've been a better choice to go here as the tide was rising...
Whatever, I finally got two good rides on the new board!
The first one was a left that got real fast and I took it through to the shore barrel. The water turned sandy brown and I went into the washing machine. I felt sure I'd hit the floor, but instead I landed on one of the fins right on my lower left back. Ouch.
Got another right with some fun moves and a cut back. Then everything changed to super shore death.
Trying to figure this board out.
Trying to figure out what the hell I am doing.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anyway... ate the rest of that killer burrito.
AND, got to see Greg and Joaquin at Toys-r-us. Cool to see Greg holding down fatherhood so well.
After that, I drove home listening to This American Life and the widow of Spaulding Grey.
Napping with visions of waves and such great sleep in the afternoon. No bad dreams. Wake up and think you've slept for twenty hours - ten times as much as you actually did.
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