The weather was excellent for it. It was crispy and clean.
I love this time of year here, when it doesn't rain that is.
Sure it's cold, but I have a wet-suit with that red f-bomb shit inside of it.
Waves were way fun. Just enough of a south swell to make good lefts. Taking off on the spiller and then riding it in to the shore as it gets steeper and steeper.
Otherwise, later on, I ended up sitting at the lighthouse parking lot in my chair in the sun, drying my wetsuit out and trying to stay in the warmth, reading my Newsweek about the Vietnam War. Tripping out on all those cats and different people passing along the cliff. I like this.
At one point I was very relaxed...
Later on, however, I find that, figuratively and literally, I have some junk in the trunk.
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