3/13/11

Hey, went again today!

Kind of like yesterday - except more.

So time change, and sleeping in... Then over to New Brighton.
From there I walked up the coast, under Depot Hill and then surfed a wave at Capitola that was real small. From there, I decided to walk up to Sharks. Interesting day in lightly drizzling rain.

I paddled out at the Dan Spot. Had some rides with poor results like taking off right when the wave was throwing and falling in to the face. It was crowded too and tried hard to share waves with people.

All of a sudden I get the right kind of shoulder to ride but then there was a guy to my left that was taking off like I was previously. I rode high on the wave like I also had to do earlier to make sure I could get out safely if they did get it. I think/hope that the person behind me got the close out section of the wave. Being in the right spot of the wave, I was able to shoot down the line with my feet real close together and use some hip gyration to gain more speed. I was able to spread my feet out and make some bottom and top turns. It was the awesome 100 yard plus yard .
I don't think I breathed at all during the ride. I never seem to.

I even got the white-wash wave back to shore. Begley was parked at New Brighton still. I had to walk two miles back to it.

This in itself was funny because it was raining more steadily. I walked across the Esplanade through Capitola and a gal flashed me some kind of hand sign because I graciously let her walk under the awning - as it was raining.

When I walked under the Depot Hill cliff, another set rolled through at Blue Tarp (Oh I didn't post about the excellent day in January at this spot - it was good and had it all to me-self for about an hour - this was on the same day that the guy almost died at Mavericks.)
Because of that session, I always get suckered in to going out there. I went out there after I watched an (I guess) anomalous set.

Saw the fishermen I met earlier - they stayed through the whole rain storm. They showed me a picture of a Leopard Shark they caught. It looked to be four feet long.

Otherwise, the ocean has been weird for the last few days. The bathtub is still sloshing around.

Here is an interesting video of the tsunami wave passing through the Golden Gate.