4/18/2010

Surf was fun today. I went twice. First in the late morning to Manresa, and then to 4-mile in the afternoon.

The swell was nice; the first reported south swell of the year I think - crossed up with a small northwest. The weather was excellent too.

I had a way fun left at Manresa in the morning - backside is fun, it's more like skateboarding. Plus just good to be out. I love getting in the water. However, I had zero stamina for the beach break - getting stuck in the rips and all. Good enough.

Later I went and hung out on west cliff. I heard there was a shooting yesterday on Woodrow.

After that I went to 4-mile and had a productive but tiring session.

I had two rides that had really steep sections. It was fast and fun. After a particularly fast and long ride, I decided to go in.

Good.