St. Patricks Day - 2010

Well, I haven't written anything here in a while...

It's not that I haven't surfed since valentine's day, but to quote Greg Rose, "I'm lovin' me some daylight savings."

Because of the extra hour, I've been able to surf two days in a row this week after work. I Finally had a productive session tonight. It was slightly better this evening than the previous one. The reports on surfline for today were Good to Epic. You know how the internet drives decisions... This has really increased the number of people out in the water. It's critical mass!

A few really good rides happened, and I feel as if I've finally got over a slump; especially with the last one.

Daylight savings is helpful, because the whole system will shut down soon enough as it is. The one month extension is helpful for us to take advantage of the NPAC swell - which has been consistently good all winter it seems. El Nino is a good thing in this regard, otherwise, it isn't so much so.

Oh and by the way, everybody else is hip to it too.

Let me tell you...

Surfing at these critical mass times, you have to be really alert and catch opportunities to out-paddle someone or to stop and pop exactly when you watch someone eat it, or not make it through the section. That's the game I guess. It's frustrating, waiting, but once you take advantage of your opportunities, it is rewarding.

I did two serious paddle trips against the currents and two "walk backs" along the cliff. (Last night I did two trips between the stairs after pretty much blowing it on the boil over section, or not being able to pop up at the right moment. Today, however, I made it through that same boil over section - whew...)

The last ride was so memorable because it was so natural, I don't remember it.

I did not blow the take off as I have so much lately, where I miss the exact moment when I am to pop up on the board. I can never fight the gravity when I miss it, so at that point I figure that a boogie board trip can be fun too. I've found that I now have a twitch associated with this. This "when to fire" thing. Like playing music, like mouse clicking...

Anyway, hope resume this blog. I still don't think I'm officially at 100. And, I even bought a flip HD camera - but I have not posted anything from it anywhere.

Super swell with an extra hour of daylight. What else can you say?