Big Surf at Oceanside

Well, the big surf here kicked my ass, but my ass was already kicked earlier.

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Check this picture of me looking thrashed after the big surf at Carlsbad the previous day.

I know I did about three hours in the water right at peak sun angle. 11AM to 2PM. That in itself kicked my ass. The paper read, "20 minutes to burn for sensitive people in LA."

Here was where I finally figured out the Brost board.

It has a hull in the front of it!

Not concave; convex!

I got a nice long ride into the shore with several sections after a long wait, after resting, after having to paddle out through shore/reef break. Shoving you deep, with impunity; because, isn't that why we're here? I mean, there's risk/reward principles transpiring here. Somehow I've always had a serious pay-off for being able to literally dig through shore-break death. Of course, you get out side to rest, but you have to come in at some point... hahahahha

Really though, I would find throughout the whole trip that I would more often than not, choose the wrong board to paddle out on. The Fish is popular in San Diego. Many of the waves, when big, are sloping so much. Long board almost. The floaty fat surface-area helps.

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Anyway, after I surfed at Carlsbad in the AM, I drove to Oceanside to meet some friends for lunch, but my diet plans for more surf meant I ate already and napped in Jentastic as they were late.

Check the pic...

When they arrived, I took them to the Brew Pub with the 11% growlers and gave them my credit card and then walked with my buddy's wife and their dog to find a new leash. The dog chewed through the old one. We ended up walking about two miles...

I got back to the van and suited up. The surf was epic. Way overhead. If you want, here's the picture again!

That right is fast and then walls out. With the pescado psycho I was able to make one of these sections just by going as fast as I could, and as parallel to the wave as possible. Then out the back without harm.

Everything else was brutal, I dropped in on several walls and jacked my knee trying so hard to twist to the right and out of harm's way. Coming in I hit my head with the board. Of course, on the small wave...

But, I'll never forget the paddle out and over swells and walls that would launch you toward the setting sun.

Very beautiful.

Purple and Orange Sunset.

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